Tag: alberta

  • Our last day in Banff

    Our last Day in Banff

    Far too quickly, our week in Banff was drawing to a close. It’s never enough time in a place like Banff, there’s so much to do. The weather had turned cooler, but remained dry, so we decided to spend the morning on a leisurely hike along the Bow River, parts of which we had paddled nearby the day before.

    Before setting off, we picked up a can of bear spray that our hotel kindly lent us, complete with clear instructions on what to do should we actually meet a bear. I must admit, carrying it in the side pocket of my rucksack certainly sharpened my awareness of what might be lurking in the woods, and I certainly hoped we wouldn’t be putting the spray to use. Being from the UK, the most dangerous animals I normally have to consider on a walk are cows, bulls, or the occasional adder.

    We followed a marked trail leading from the side of the Bow River. It’s amazing how quiet it was as we ventured deeper into the woodland, and also very beautiful, albeit with an edge of tension thanks to our heightened wildlife awareness. We chatted deliberately as we walked, making just enough noise to alert any animals to our presence. Some hikers fix bells to their packs to warn bears away, or so the theory goes.

    At one point, we paused on a small wooden footbridge and spotted some fresh pawprints. Out came Google Lens, which suggested they were too small for a bear. Possibly a wolf, judging by the shape and size. With our antennae fully raised, we carried on, wondering if the creature responsible was watching us from the shadows. The forest was beautiful, and we stopped often just to breathe in the crisp Rocky Mountain air, sometimes sitting quietly with our eyes closed, listening to the beautiful sounds of nature around us.

    Eventually, the trail brought us back to our starting point. Feeling hungry, we headed to Evelyn’s Coffee Bar for lunch, still debating what animal those tracks belonged to. We settled on probably a wolf……unless it was a small bear, though we’ll never know for sure.

    After a good rest and excellent food, we decided to walk once more to the Bow Falls, a favourite spot we had first visited earlier in the week. It’s such a lovely area, even if the paths can get busy. As we descended to the lower level, we watched several white-water rafts begin their run. We didn’t get the chance to try it this time, but it looked exhilarating, and very wet! Maybe on our next visit we might try it.

    It’s funny how, on the final day of a trip, I always try to squeeze in as much as possible, but eventually the daylight began to fade. That evening we enjoyed a fabulous dinner at The Maple Leaf, followed by one last browse around the shops before returning to the hotel to pack and get a good night’s sleep. The next day would take us by bus to Calgary and then by plane back to Vancouver.

    Tips

    • If you are going of on a trek, defiantly take bear spray.
    • Chatting, and making some noise I’m told does help wildlife aware you are around and avoids startling them.
    • Just sit with your eyes closed and listen to your surroundings.
    • Evelyns Coffee Bar is great for coffee and lunch.
    • Take a walk to the Bow River falls and maybe even try white water rafting.

  • Banff- The Great Outdoors

    Banff- The Great Outdoors

    As keen paddleboarders and kayakers, it only seemed right that we enjoy our favourite pastime while in the Canadian Rockies. The Bow River was easily accessible, just a short walk from the centre of Banff to the Banff Canoe Club.

    It was a sunny September day, reasonably warm but with a strong breeze. We hired a tandem canoe and quickly realised it was windier than we had expected. Our plan had been to paddle upstream along the Bow River, but it soon became clear we needed to rethink. Instead, we turned up Echo Creek, which offered far more shelter than the open river, and, as it turned out, so much more.

    As we paddled, we were surrounded by peaceful tranquillity, just us and nature. We kept a lookout for some of Canada’s resident wildlife. Near the point where the creek branches off toward Vermilion Lakes, we came across a beaver dam, which was an incredible sight, though not a beaver around. We continued as far as we could, navigating around fallen trees, before turning back. We captured some fabulous, iconic photos of this wonderful experience, and I can’t recommend enough to set aside an hour or two to enjoy this outdoor adventure.

    That afternoon we took the short Roam Transit Route 6 bus ride to Lake Minnewanka. The route also stops at Two Jack Lake and Johnson Lake, so it’s easy to explore all three. Lake Minnewanka, a glacier-fed lake, is the largest of the three and the biggest in Banff National Park. In summer, you can take the popular Lake Minnewanka Cruise, which lasts about an hour. We hadn’t booked it, though it’s easy to arrange through GetYourGuide, a brilliant online marketplace we use for travel planning. Instead, we were happy to stroll along the lakeshore and simply soak up the stunning scenery. 

    The Canadian Rockies truly are the gift that keeps on giving. I could never tire of the jaw droppingly beautiful landscapes, the fresh mountain air, and the wonderful Canadian hospitality. After a perfect afternoon, we returned to our hotel, The Buffalo Mountain Lodge, which we were thoroughly enjoying. That evening, after a delicious pizza at Farm & Fire restaurant, we called it a night after an energetic and unforgettable day.

    Tips

    • I highly recommend Banff Canoe Club to hire a canoe. Its certainly good value and if you intend to go several times, it would be worth joining to get the discount.
    • Lake Minnewanka should not be missed. It’s only a short bus ride from Banff.
    • Try the Lake Minnewanka cruise. I’m told it’s a lovely way to spend an hour or so.
    • Consider what to wear if out on the river- You might get wet!
    • Farm and Fire restaurant in Banff is excellent for pizza.

  • The Icefield Parkway

    The Icefields Parkway

    It was a fairly early start for us, up around 7 a.m to catch the bus into town for our day tour along the Icefields Parkway. Due to the devastating fires in Jasper, the tour had been altered, so we would now depart from and return to Banff. That particular morning, we were treated to an incredible sunrise, as the sky was glowing like it was in flames.

    Our tour was with Brewster Sightseeing, and soon we were on our way out of Banff towards Lake Louise, our first stop. The coach driver was fantastic, knowledgeable, engaging, and full of fascinating stories. We were especially fortunate to have the front seats, offering us uninterrupted views through the large front windscreen all day long.

    As we travelled along the Trans-Canada Highway, the driver pointed out the wildlife overpasses. These are bridges designed to let animals cross safely without venturing onto the road. I’d never seen or even heard of these before, and it really highlights Canada’s deep respect and care for its wildlife. Fencing also runs along much of the route, helping to keep the roads safe for both animals and travellers.

    We arrived at Lake Louise around 9 a.m. and took a gentle stroll down to the water’s edge. Visiting this iconic lake had long been on our bucket list, and it was every bit as beautiful as we’d imagined. Even at that early hour, the area was busy. I can only imagine what it must be like in the height of summer. Before long, we were back on the coach and heading north onto the Icefields Parkway, the spectacular highway that links Banff and Jasper National Parks.

    Our next stop was Bow Lake, which also offered stunning views of the Crowfoot Glacier. The scenery along this route is beyond words. There are majestic mountain peaks everywhere you look. Travelling the Icefields Parkway is an unforgettable experience, and it’s easy to see why it’s considered one of the world’s most scenic drives. We were fortunate to be visiting in late September, just as the larch trees were turning a brilliant golden yellow. It was exactly what we had hoped to see when we planned this trip, and it didn’t disappoint. The variety of landscapes; glaciers, turquoise lakes, alpine ridges, and sheer canyon walls is staggering. Canada truly is both vast and breathtakingly beautiful.

    After a quick stop at the Saskatchewan Crossing, we continued our journey, soaking in the immense Rocky Mountain scenery. Lunch was included as part of the tour and served at the Jasper National Park Visitor Centre. From there, we could already see the Athabasca Glacier, which we would soon be walking on after lunch.

    To access the glacier, we transferred to an Ice Explorer, which is a massive, all-wheel-drive vehicle with enormous tyres designed to traverse the ice. Our guide, an energetic Australian, was both entertaining and knowledgeable, and he ensured everyone’s safety as we ventured onto the glacier. Having never walked on a glacier before, we were all excited, wrapped up in winter clothing, as even in September it was cold and very windy. Stepping onto the ice was quite an experience; with the gusty winds, it’s a miracle none of us toppled over! After about ten or fifteen minutes (and a few near-falls), I decided I’d had my fill of glacier walking. It’s one of those experiences I’m thrilled to have done — once!

    Our next stop was just a short drive away: the Columbia Icefield Skywalk. This was another highlight. It is a semi-circular, glass-floored walkway that cantilevers out 280 metres above a dramatic gorge. Stepping onto the transparent floor was both thrilling and unnerving, but the views were spectacular.

    This marked the furthest point of our journey along the Icefields Parkway, and from there we turned back toward Banff. The drive from the Icefield to Lake Louise takes about two hours, though we made one last unforgettable stop at Peyto Lake. I was completely captivated. I’ve never seen such vivid turquoise water, and the lake’s unique wolf-head shape made it even more memorable. Peyto Lake became my personal favourite sight of the day.

    After leaving Peyto Lake, we continued back to Lake Louise to drop off a few passengers before making the final leg to Banff, about 45 minutes away. In total, the tour lasted around ten hours. It was a full and truly magical day. I can’t recommend Brewster Sightseeing highly enough; they were absolutely fabulous.

    Tips

    • Brewster Sightseeing provided us with an excellent service.
    • Wrap up warm when on the glacier walk, and ensure you are wearing footwear with grippy soles.
    • Peyto Lake was my highlight- It is stunning.
    • The skywalk was excellent and I highly recommend it.
    • Don’t forget your camera and spare battery.

  • Banff: Mountain Views

    Banff- Mountain Views

    There’s something magical about waking up, pulling back the curtains, and finding yourself surrounded by the Rocky Mountains in every direction. Having already travelled through and around these peaks on our journey from Vancouver to Banff, we decided it was time to stand on top of one. In Banff, the easiest way to do that, is to take the cable car up Sulphur Mountain.

    We often use Get Your Guide (GYG) when planning trips — creating a wish list, refining our ideas, and booking the experiences we settle on. It’s a fantastic tool, in my opinion. Knowing how busy the Banff Gondola can get, we booked well in advance, aiming for a mid-morning ascent so we could enjoy lunch at the top before heading back down.

    After breakfast, we caught the Roam Transit bus (Route 1) to the base of Sulphur Mountain — about a 15-minute ride from our hotel. The station was already bustling with visitors, confirming we’d chosen a popular time slot. Boarding ran exactly on schedule, and soon we were gliding smoothly up the mountain. The ride takes around eight minutes, delivering ever-expanding views until you step out into a full 360-degree panorama over Banff, Mount Rundle, and the surrounding wilderness.

    I spotted a few hardy hikers making the climb on foot. I’m not sure exactly how long it takes- probably dependent on fitness and determination, but for me, I suspect it would be a multi-hour affair with plenty of ‘photo stops’.

    At the summit, wooden boardwalks lead you along to Sanson’s Peak, the highest point. It’s an easy walk with jaw-dropping views in every direction. On this September morning, the weather was bright but dotted with patches of cloud, allowing us to see mile upon mile of the Canadian Rockies. It was one of those moments we’d dreamed of, so we lingered, soaking it all in. The air was noticeably cooler, and we were glad to have brought our lightweight down jackets and woolly hats- a reminder that mountain weather calls for layers, even on clear days.

    The summit complex has plenty to explore — an interactive theatre, a gift shop, a coffee bar, and a choice of dining options. We’d pre-booked a table at Sky Bistro, and it was worth it. Sitting by the window at 2,200 metres elevation, with the Rockies sprawling out before us, made for a truly memorable lunch.

    Eventually, we had to head down, as it was time to change hotels. We said a fond farewell to Hotel Canoe & Suites and moved to Buffalo Mountain Lodge on Tunnel Mountain Road. Nestled among the trees, it offered a peaceful retreat just a short Roam Transit ride (Route 2, about six minutes) from downtown Banff. Our timber lodge-style room, complete with a balcony overlooking the forest, was quiet and well-equipped — so quiet, in fact, we never heard another guest during our stay. The lodge restaurant served hearty breakfasts with generous portions, and as always in Canada, the welcome was warm and genuine.

    That evening, we returned to town for dinner at Melissa’s MisSteak on Banff Avenue, a spot recommended to us on social media. It lived up to the praise, and after a satisfying meal, we turned in early — the next day promised another highlight of our trip: the iconic Icefields Parkway drive to Jasper.

    Tips:

    • Purchase a Roam Transit local bus pass- Its well worth it.
    • Pre-book the Gondola, as it’s popular and gets busy.
    • Lunch at the Sky Bistro is a must, and try and reserve a window table.
    • Ensure you have sufficient clothing. The temperature is a few degrees cooler on the summit and can change quickly.
    • Get Your Guide in my opinion is an excellent app for planning and booking experiences.

  • Banff: Welcome to the Rockies

    Banff: Welcome to the Rockies

    Due to the devastating fires in Jasper, our original itinerary was altered, and we were allocated additional nights in Banff. Our first hotel was the newly constructed Hotel Canoe and Suites on Banff Avenue. The recently completed rooms were fabulous. Ours featured a spacious bedroom/sitting area with a gas fireplace, a good-sized balcony facing the rear, a well-equipped kitchenette, and a large bathroom with a walk-in shower.

    We dined at Sudden Sally, the excellent onsite restaurant, and enjoyed both breakfasts and dinners there. The hotel staff were fantastic, continuing the warm Canadian hospitality we’d come to appreciate.

    After two long days aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, we decided to take it easy, explore Banff town, and breathe in the fresh Rocky Mountain air. After breakfast, we caught the brilliant Roam Transit local bus service. A free pass was kindly provided by the hotel for the duration of our stay. These small buses are frequent, punctual, and very convenient. A stop was located directly outside the hotel, and the journey into the town centre took around five minutes, with multiple stops en-route.

    I use the Transit app on my iPhone (which has worked well for me in other countries), and I think it’s brilliant to check bus times and how long until the next bus arrives. At the time of our visit, a local bus day pass was just $5. You can find more info on Roam Transit online. We hopped off in the town centre and browsed around the varied shops for a while, bumping into several of our travel companions from the Rocky Mountaineer. From there, we wandered over to the Banff National Park Administration Building, located at the end of Banff Avenue across the Bow River.

    It was a beautiful morning, and I was still pinching myself that we were actually in Banff. It’s a stunning town with jaw-dropping mountain scenery and sits at an elevation of 4,537 feet (1,383m). As it was getting late in the morning, we took a break at Evelyn’s, a fantastic coffee bar on Banff Avenue that we’d found recommended on social media, and it didn’t disappoint. We ended up staying for lunch as well. Social media travel groups were really helpful in our planning stages, and much of the advice we followed led us to great food spots and practical travel tips.

    After our pit stop, we took a walk along the Bow River, heading first to Bow Falls. It was the third week of September, and relatively busy, but Banff never felt overrun during our stay. The weather was ideal: sunny, crisp, and autumnal, perfect for a walk along the river. The falls themselves aren’t especially tall or dramatic, but they’re still a beautiful and peaceful spot, and a lovely place to sit and listen to the water as it rushed past.

    One thing to always keep in mind in this part of Canada is the wildlife. Bears and other animals are known to wander into town, so it’s important to stay alert. With the number of people walking to Bow Falls that day, the human presence likely deterred wildlife, but that shouldn’t be relied upon. A few days later, we walked a much quieter stretch of the Bow River, and it became clear we weren’t alone. Our hotel had loaned us a can of bear spray, and when we came across large, fresh paw prints in the mud near the river, it certainly sharpened our awareness. Thankfully, we returned the bear spray unused that evening, but it was a valuable reminder to stay cautious and be respectful of the natural environment.

    We rounded off our first full day in Banff with a visit to COWS, a fantastic ice cream store on Banff Avenue, offering delicious flavours. We couldn’t resist going back several times during our stay. That evening, we had dinner back at Sudden Sally’s and enjoyed the relaxed, welcoming vibe around the hotel after a day full of walking, exploring, and mountain air.

    Tips:

    • Pack clothing for all weathers. Layers always work best and comfortable footwear with good gripping soles is a must for hiking.
    • The Roam Transit pass is excellent and for $5 per day. Its worth looking into other routes further a field, such as Lake Louise.
    • Walk the Bow River to the Bow River falls. Its wonderful.
    • Ask your hotel for some bear spray- Be prepared and listen to the advice from the experts on what to do if you come across a bear or other wildlife.
    • Evelyns for coffee is highly recommended.

  • Rocky Mountaineer- Day Two: Ascending to the Rockies

    The Rocky Mountaineer- Day Two: Ascending to the Rockies

    After a few hours of rest, we were up just after 5:15 a.m. for our 6 a.m. coach pickup. It was still dark, so we didn’t get to see Kamloops in daylight at all. Just before 7 a.m, we pulled out of the station, once again waved off by the cheerful staff lined up along the platform.

    Breakfast was served shortly after departure—another fabulous meal, and we were off, filled with anticipation as Banff awaited us at the end of this breathtaking day. Today, we would ascend into the majestic Canadian Rocky Mountains.

    I felt overwhelmingly happy. Visiting the Rockies had been a long-held dream for us, one we’d spent nearly a year planning in detail, all centred around this train journey. At the same time, there was a tinge of sadness, as by the end of the day, this magical journey would come to a close. But with numerous photos taken and countless moments etched into our minds, we knew we’d be carrying these memories with us forever.

    One particularly memorable moment was passing through Craigellachie, the historic site where the last spike of the Canadian Pacific Railway was driven in, with a monumental point marking the completion of Canada’s first transcontinental railway. A monument now stands there to commemorate the event.

    As we continued through Revelstoke, the landscape transformed dramatically. We were now in true mountainous country, pressing on toward Golden, and crossing the Stoney Creek Bridge in Glacier National Park. The views from the bridge were incredible, but then again, the views throughout the entire journey were consistently stunning.

    This second day felt even more awe-inspiring. You begin to truly grasp the immensity of the mountains and the sheer scale of Canada itself. The Rocky Mountaineer hosts were exceptional, keeping us informed along the route with fascinating insights into the history and significance of each location. Their knowledge and warmth made the experience even more special- Huge credit to them.

    We began to notice the changing colours of the river waters, a result of glacier melt feeding the rivers. The vibrant turquoise hues were unlike anything I’d ever seen. Passing through Golden, we followed the Kicking Horse River toward Field, entering one of the most mind-bending stretches of engineering: the Spiral Tunnels. Even now, I find it hard to fully comprehend how they work. You enter a tunnel with the view on one side of the train and emerge with the view now on the opposite side—after a 270-degree turn. Then you move into the next spiral tunnel. It’s a genius feat of engineering, designed to safely navigate the steep gradients of the mountains.

    As we passed through Field, we soon crossed the Continental Divide—where the border between British Columbia and Alberta lies. Here, we also shifted from Pacific Time (GMT -8) to Mountain Time (GMT -7), gaining an hour. Not long after, we arrived at Lake Louise station, where a few passengers disembarked. At that moment, it hit us that our own journey was nearly over. But before reaching Banff, the hosts came around with the drinks trolley one last time, offering a final toast to this unforgettable experience. Almost 13 hours after leaving Kamloops, we pulled into Banff, where we’d stay for nearly a week.

    It’s impossible to do justice to this journey in a short blog. It was truly an incredible experience—one of epic landscapes, towering mountains, deep valleys, cascading waterfalls, and endless forest—all accompanied by the unparalleled care of the Rocky Mountaineer team. These are memories we’ll treasure forever, and hopefully, one day, we’ll return to ride the Rocky Mountaineer once again.

    Tips:

    • As I already mentioned in a previous blog, we travelled Silver Leaf. It was fabulous. The hosts are trained to serve in both classes, the natural world views out of the oversized windows are amazing and the food, albeit served at your very comfortable seat was first class, which actually meant you didn’t miss a thing. I see negative comments on social media from time to time saying that Gold Leaf is the only way to travel. Take no notice of this, Silver Leaf was exceptional, and I would have no hesitation booking the same class again. For more info, please check out their website, where you can watch various videos to you help you to decide- rockymountaineer.com