Western Canada Grand Tour – a tour of Western Canada

Our Final Day

Our trip back to Vancouver from Calgary was less than ideal! It was the only point of the entire tour where we had an issue. The issue was arriving at Calgary Airport and soon after check-in, our flight was delayed 4 hours. In fact, there were a number of domestic flight delays that afternoon. I’m just thankful we have membership with Priority Pass, so at least we were able to rest in a lounge. On our travels, Priority Pass really has been fantastic over the years, and when you are delayed, it really comes into its own.

Consequently, we didn’t arrive until 9pm, missing our last dinner date in Vancouver, and without our luggage, as that took another flight, thanks to the airline! To be fair to them, it did follow us several hours later, arriving at our hotel during the night whilst we were sleeping. For our last night we stayed at the fabulous Westin Hotel, Bayshore. The receptionist, feeling sorry for us due to our plight, upgraded us to a corner room on a high floor with floor to ceiling windows. This gave us a wonderful view looking over Stanley Park and the harbour below. It really was fantastic, and we are so grateful to The Westin for their kindness.

We got up fairly early, and after collecting our delayed luggage from the concierge, were soon out again in the lovely September sunshine for breakfast. As we were close to Café Villagio, the first place we ate on our very first day in Vancouver, we decided this would be a good place for our last breakfast in Canada, and it’s a great café. Fortunately, we were able to sit outside and enjoy our last few hours of Canadian air by the water. Taking in the incredible views of where the Pacific Ocean meets the mountains.

After this fuel up, we were ready to walk along the seawall of Stanley Park. It really is a fantastic way to spend an hour or two, walking, running or cycling. It can get busy later in the day and there is a lane for cyclists, and the other lane is for walking or running. Cyclists must go counterclockwise only- to avoid collisions. You also need to make sure you don’t drift over into the cyclist’s lane if you are on foot.

For us, we enjoy walking the seawall and we again stopped on a bench with a coffee and just watched the Harbour Air sea planes take off and land from their terminal at Coal Harbour. It is very busy, and I could sit there for hours just watching. It is incredible the very short distance it takes for them to get airborne. As we continued our walk, we had the added bonus that the leaves were turning beautiful shades of yellows and reds. September really is a fabulous month to visit Western Canada. When we plan our next trip, it will be in September for sure.

After a lovely walk, taking in the buzz of Vancouvers harbour, we decided to head into the city, as it was lunch time by this point, and we decided to try the downtown Jam Café on Beatty Street. You may remember we ate at their café in Victoria, and this was just as good. I love the vibe in the Jam Cafés, and the food is excellent.

After our lunch, we headed back into Gas Town and to the steam clock, which always has many people just stood and looking at it…. me included. Then we continued and walked round the impressive Canada Place, which is always a hive of activity, and it was today, as a huge cruise ship was in the port and ready to depart. In fact, as we walked further around towards Coal Harbour, we sat on a bench and watched it gracefully set sail for Alaska. That must be an incredible cruise and one that we are contemplating.

Sadly, our time in Western Canada was coming to a close. At around 5.15pm we took a cab to Vancouver International airport, which is around 30 minutes or so, and it cost us $55.00 including tip. It was a quiet journey, as we bid a sad farewell to this incredible country, reflecting on the amazing adventure we had been on. Canada is a country that had welcomed, helped, and appreciated us for the duration of our trip. Its sheer beauty and vastness is staggering. I’m already looking into our next Canadian adventure, which the plan is to travel from Nova Scotia to Vancouver not using airplanes!

I do hope through my brief reflections on our experiences, you can start to plan your Grand Tour of Western Canada too.

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Mark Twain.

December 1, 2025
Our last Day in Banff

Far too quickly, our week in Banff was drawing to a close. It’s never enough time in a place like Banff, there’s so much to do. The weather had turned cooler, but remained dry, so we decided to spend the morning on a leisurely hike along the Bow River, parts of which we had paddled nearby the day before.

Before setting off, we picked up a can of bear spray that our hotel kindly lent us, complete with clear instructions on what to do should we actually meet a bear. I must admit, carrying it in the side pocket of my rucksack certainly sharpened my awareness of what might be lurking in the woods, and I certainly hoped we wouldn’t be putting the spray to use. Being from the UK, the most dangerous animals I normally have to consider on a walk are cows, bulls, or the occasional adder.

We followed a marked trail leading from the side of the Bow River. It’s amazing how quiet it was as we ventured deeper into the woodland, and also very beautiful, albeit with an edge of tension thanks to our heightened wildlife awareness. We chatted deliberately as we walked, making just enough noise to alert any animals to our presence. Some hikers fix bells to their packs to warn bears away, or so the theory goes.

At one point, we paused on a small wooden footbridge and spotted some fresh pawprints. Out came Google Lens, which suggested they were too small for a bear. Possibly a wolf, judging by the shape and size. With our antennae fully raised, we carried on, wondering if the creature responsible was watching us from the shadows. The forest was beautiful, and we stopped often just to breathe in the crisp Rocky Mountain air, sometimes sitting quietly with our eyes closed, listening to the beautiful sounds of nature around us.

Eventually, the trail brought us back to our starting point. Feeling hungry, we headed to Evelyn’s Coffee Bar for lunch, still debating what animal those tracks belonged to. We settled on probably a wolf……unless it was a small bear, though we’ll never know for sure.

After a good rest and excellent food, we decided to walk once more to the Bow Falls, a favourite spot we had first visited earlier in the week. It’s such a lovely area, even if the paths can get busy. As we descended to the lower level, we watched several white-water rafts begin their run. We didn’t get the chance to try it this time, but it looked exhilarating, and very wet! Maybe on our next visit we might try it.

It’s funny how, on the final day of a trip, I always try to squeeze in as much as possible, but eventually the daylight began to fade. That evening we enjoyed a fabulous dinner at The Maple Leaf, followed by one last browse around the shops before returning to the hotel to pack and get a good night’s sleep. The next day would take us by bus to Calgary and then by plane back to Vancouver.

Tips
- If you are going of on a trek, defiantly take bear spray.
- Chatting, and making some noise I’m told does help wildlife aware you are around and avoids startling them.
- Just sit with your eyes closed and listen to your surroundings.
- Evelyns Coffee Bar is great for coffee and lunch.
- Take a walk to the Bow River falls and maybe even try white water rafting.
November 20, 2025
Banff- The Great Outdoors

As keen paddleboarders and kayakers, it only seemed right that we enjoy our favourite pastime while in the Canadian Rockies. The Bow River was easily accessible, just a short walk from the centre of Banff to the Banff Canoe Club.

It was a sunny September day, reasonably warm but with a strong breeze. We hired a tandem canoe and quickly realised it was windier than we had expected. Our plan had been to paddle upstream along the Bow River, but it soon became clear we needed to rethink. Instead, we turned up Echo Creek, which offered far more shelter than the open river, and, as it turned out, so much more.

As we paddled, we were surrounded by peaceful tranquillity, just us and nature. We kept a lookout for some of Canada’s resident wildlife. Near the point where the creek branches off toward Vermilion Lakes, we came across a beaver dam, which was an incredible sight, though not a beaver around. We continued as far as we could, navigating around fallen trees, before turning back. We captured some fabulous, iconic photos of this wonderful experience, and I can’t recommend enough to set aside an hour or two to enjoy this outdoor adventure.

That afternoon we took the short Roam Transit Route 6 bus ride to Lake Minnewanka. The route also stops at Two Jack Lake and Johnson Lake, so it’s easy to explore all three. Lake Minnewanka, a glacier-fed lake, is the largest of the three and the biggest in Banff National Park. In summer, you can take the popular Lake Minnewanka Cruise, which lasts about an hour. We hadn’t booked it, though it’s easy to arrange through GetYourGuide, a brilliant online marketplace we use for travel planning. Instead, we were happy to stroll along the lakeshore and simply soak up the stunning scenery.

The Canadian Rockies truly are the gift that keeps on giving. I could never tire of the jaw droppingly beautiful landscapes, the fresh mountain air, and the wonderful Canadian hospitality. After a perfect afternoon, we returned to our hotel, The Buffalo Mountain Lodge, which we were thoroughly enjoying. That evening, after a delicious pizza at Farm & Fire restaurant, we called it a night after an energetic and unforgettable day.

Tips
- I highly recommend Banff Canoe Club to hire a canoe. Its certainly good value and if you intend to go several times, it would be worth joining to get the discount.
- Lake Minnewanka should not be missed. It’s only a short bus ride from Banff.
- Try the Lake Minnewanka cruise. I’m told it’s a lovely way to spend an hour or so.
- Consider what to wear if out on the river- You might get wet!
- Farm and Fire restaurant in Banff is excellent for pizza.
November 11, 2025
The Icefields Parkway

It was a fairly early start for us, up around 7 a.m to catch the bus into town for our day tour along the Icefields Parkway. Due to the devastating fires in Jasper, the tour had been altered, so we would now depart from and return to Banff. That particular morning, we were treated to an incredible sunrise, as the sky was glowing like it was in flames.

Our tour was with Brewster Sightseeing, and soon we were on our way out of Banff towards Lake Louise, our first stop. The coach driver was fantastic, knowledgeable, engaging, and full of fascinating stories. We were especially fortunate to have the front seats, offering us uninterrupted views through the large front windscreen all day long.

As we travelled along the Trans-Canada Highway, the driver pointed out the wildlife overpasses. These are bridges designed to let animals cross safely without venturing onto the road. I’d never seen or even heard of these before, and it really highlights Canada’s deep respect and care for its wildlife. Fencing also runs along much of the route, helping to keep the roads safe for both animals and travellers.

We arrived at Lake Louise around 9 a.m. and took a gentle stroll down to the water’s edge. Visiting this iconic lake had long been on our bucket list, and it was every bit as beautiful as we’d imagined. Even at that early hour, the area was busy. I can only imagine what it must be like in the height of summer. Before long, we were back on the coach and heading north onto the Icefields Parkway, the spectacular highway that links Banff and Jasper National Parks.

Our next stop was Bow Lake, which also offered stunning views of the Crowfoot Glacier. The scenery along this route is beyond words. There are majestic mountain peaks everywhere you look. Travelling the Icefields Parkway is an unforgettable experience, and it’s easy to see why it’s considered one of the world’s most scenic drives. We were fortunate to be visiting in late September, just as the larch trees were turning a brilliant golden yellow. It was exactly what we had hoped to see when we planned this trip, and it didn’t disappoint. The variety of landscapes; glaciers, turquoise lakes, alpine ridges, and sheer canyon walls is staggering. Canada truly is both vast and breathtakingly beautiful.

After a quick stop at the Saskatchewan Crossing, we continued our journey, soaking in the immense Rocky Mountain scenery. Lunch was included as part of the tour and served at the Jasper National Park Visitor Centre. From there, we could already see the Athabasca Glacier, which we would soon be walking on after lunch.

To access the glacier, we transferred to an Ice Explorer, which is a massive, all-wheel-drive vehicle with enormous tyres designed to traverse the ice. Our guide, an energetic Australian, was both entertaining and knowledgeable, and he ensured everyone’s safety as we ventured onto the glacier. Having never walked on a glacier before, we were all excited, wrapped up in winter clothing, as even in September it was cold and very windy. Stepping onto the ice was quite an experience; with the gusty winds, it’s a miracle none of us toppled over! After about ten or fifteen minutes (and a few near-falls), I decided I’d had my fill of glacier walking. It’s one of those experiences I’m thrilled to have done — once!

Our next stop was just a short drive away: the Columbia Icefield Skywalk. This was another highlight. It is a semi-circular, glass-floored walkway that cantilevers out 280 metres above a dramatic gorge. Stepping onto the transparent floor was both thrilling and unnerving, but the views were spectacular.

This marked the furthest point of our journey along the Icefields Parkway, and from there we turned back toward Banff. The drive from the Icefield to Lake Louise takes about two hours, though we made one last unforgettable stop at Peyto Lake. I was completely captivated. I’ve never seen such vivid turquoise water, and the lake’s unique wolf-head shape made it even more memorable. Peyto Lake became my personal favourite sight of the day.

After leaving Peyto Lake, we continued back to Lake Louise to drop off a few passengers before making the final leg to Banff, about 45 minutes away. In total, the tour lasted around ten hours. It was a full and truly magical day. I can’t recommend Brewster Sightseeing highly enough; they were absolutely fabulous.

Tips
- Brewster Sightseeing provided us with an excellent service.
- Wrap up warm when on the glacier walk, and ensure you are wearing footwear with grippy soles.
- Peyto Lake was my highlight- It is stunning.
- The skywalk was excellent and I highly recommend it.
- Don’t forget your camera and spare battery.
November 1, 2025
Banff- Mountain Views

There’s something magical about waking up, pulling back the curtains, and finding yourself surrounded by the Rocky Mountains in every direction. Having already travelled through and around these peaks on our journey from Vancouver to Banff, we decided it was time to stand on top of one. In Banff, the easiest way to do that, is to take the cable car up Sulphur Mountain.

We often use Get Your Guide (GYG) when planning trips — creating a wish list, refining our ideas, and booking the experiences we settle on. It’s a fantastic tool, in my opinion. Knowing how busy the Banff Gondola can get, we booked well in advance, aiming for a mid-morning ascent so we could enjoy lunch at the top before heading back down.

After breakfast, we caught the Roam Transit bus (Route 1) to the base of Sulphur Mountain — about a 15-minute ride from our hotel. The station was already bustling with visitors, confirming we’d chosen a popular time slot. Boarding ran exactly on schedule, and soon we were gliding smoothly up the mountain. The ride takes around eight minutes, delivering ever-expanding views until you step out into a full 360-degree panorama over Banff, Mount Rundle, and the surrounding wilderness.

I spotted a few hardy hikers making the climb on foot. I’m not sure exactly how long it takes- probably dependent on fitness and determination, but for me, I suspect it would be a multi-hour affair with plenty of ‘photo stops’.

At the summit, wooden boardwalks lead you along to Sanson’s Peak, the highest point. It’s an easy walk with jaw-dropping views in every direction. On this September morning, the weather was bright but dotted with patches of cloud, allowing us to see mile upon mile of the Canadian Rockies. It was one of those moments we’d dreamed of, so we lingered, soaking it all in. The air was noticeably cooler, and we were glad to have brought our lightweight down jackets and woolly hats- a reminder that mountain weather calls for layers, even on clear days.

The summit complex has plenty to explore — an interactive theatre, a gift shop, a coffee bar, and a choice of dining options. We’d pre-booked a table at Sky Bistro, and it was worth it. Sitting by the window at 2,200 metres elevation, with the Rockies sprawling out before us, made for a truly memorable lunch.

Eventually, we had to head down, as it was time to change hotels. We said a fond farewell to Hotel Canoe & Suites and moved to Buffalo Mountain Lodge on Tunnel Mountain Road. Nestled among the trees, it offered a peaceful retreat just a short Roam Transit ride (Route 2, about six minutes) from downtown Banff. Our timber lodge-style room, complete with a balcony overlooking the forest, was quiet and well-equipped — so quiet, in fact, we never heard another guest during our stay. The lodge restaurant served hearty breakfasts with generous portions, and as always in Canada, the welcome was warm and genuine.

That evening, we returned to town for dinner at Melissa’s MisSteak on Banff Avenue, a spot recommended to us on social media. It lived up to the praise, and after a satisfying meal, we turned in early — the next day promised another highlight of our trip: the iconic Icefields Parkway drive to Jasper.

Tips:
- Purchase a Roam Transit local bus pass- Its well worth it.
- Pre-book the Gondola, as it’s popular and gets busy.
- Lunch at the Sky Bistro is a must, and try and reserve a window table.
- Ensure you have sufficient clothing. The temperature is a few degrees cooler on the summit and can change quickly.
- Get Your Guide in my opinion is an excellent app for planning and booking experiences.
August 13, 2025
Banff: Welcome to the Rockies

Due to the devastating fires in Jasper, our original itinerary was altered, and we were allocated additional nights in Banff. Our first hotel was the newly constructed Hotel Canoe and Suites on Banff Avenue. The recently completed rooms were fabulous. Ours featured a spacious bedroom/sitting area with a gas fireplace, a good-sized balcony facing the rear, a well-equipped kitchenette, and a large bathroom with a walk-in shower.

We dined at Sudden Sally, the excellent onsite restaurant, and enjoyed both breakfasts and dinners there. The hotel staff were fantastic, continuing the warm Canadian hospitality we’d come to appreciate.

After two long days aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, we decided to take it easy, explore Banff town, and breathe in the fresh Rocky Mountain air. After breakfast, we caught the brilliant Roam Transit local bus service. A free pass was kindly provided by the hotel for the duration of our stay. These small buses are frequent, punctual, and very convenient. A stop was located directly outside the hotel, and the journey into the town centre took around five minutes, with multiple stops en-route.

I use the Transit app on my iPhone (which has worked well for me in other countries), and I think it’s brilliant to check bus times and how long until the next bus arrives. At the time of our visit, a local bus day pass was just $5. You can find more info on Roam Transit online. We hopped off in the town centre and browsed around the varied shops for a while, bumping into several of our travel companions from the Rocky Mountaineer. From there, we wandered over to the Banff National Park Administration Building, located at the end of Banff Avenue across the Bow River.

It was a beautiful morning, and I was still pinching myself that we were actually in Banff. It’s a stunning town with jaw-dropping mountain scenery and sits at an elevation of 4,537 feet (1,383m). As it was getting late in the morning, we took a break at Evelyn’s, a fantastic coffee bar on Banff Avenue that we’d found recommended on social media, and it didn’t disappoint. We ended up staying for lunch as well. Social media travel groups were really helpful in our planning stages, and much of the advice we followed led us to great food spots and practical travel tips.

After our pit stop, we took a walk along the Bow River, heading first to Bow Falls. It was the third week of September, and relatively busy, but Banff never felt overrun during our stay. The weather was ideal: sunny, crisp, and autumnal, perfect for a walk along the river. The falls themselves aren’t especially tall or dramatic, but they’re still a beautiful and peaceful spot, and a lovely place to sit and listen to the water as it rushed past.

One thing to always keep in mind in this part of Canada is the wildlife. Bears and other animals are known to wander into town, so it’s important to stay alert. With the number of people walking to Bow Falls that day, the human presence likely deterred wildlife, but that shouldn’t be relied upon. A few days later, we walked a much quieter stretch of the Bow River, and it became clear we weren’t alone. Our hotel had loaned us a can of bear spray, and when we came across large, fresh paw prints in the mud near the river, it certainly sharpened our awareness. Thankfully, we returned the bear spray unused that evening, but it was a valuable reminder to stay cautious and be respectful of the natural environment.

We rounded off our first full day in Banff with a visit to COWS, a fantastic ice cream store on Banff Avenue, offering delicious flavours. We couldn’t resist going back several times during our stay. That evening, we had dinner back at Sudden Sally’s and enjoyed the relaxed, welcoming vibe around the hotel after a day full of walking, exploring, and mountain air.

Tips:
- Pack clothing for all weathers. Layers always work best and comfortable footwear with good gripping soles is a must for hiking.
- The Roam Transit pass is excellent and for $5 per day. Its worth looking into other routes further a field, such as Lake Louise.
- Walk the Bow River to the Bow River falls. Its wonderful.
- Ask your hotel for some bear spray- Be prepared and listen to the advice from the experts on what to do if you come across a bear or other wildlife.
- Evelyns for coffee is highly recommended.
July 28, 2025
The Rocky Mountaineer- Day Two: Ascending to the Rockies

After a few hours of rest, we were up just after 5:15 a.m. for our 6 a.m. coach pickup. It was still dark, so we didn’t get to see Kamloops in daylight at all. Just before 7 a.m, we pulled out of the station, once again waved off by the cheerful staff lined up along the platform.

Breakfast was served shortly after departure—another fabulous meal, and we were off, filled with anticipation as Banff awaited us at the end of this breathtaking day. Today, we would ascend into the majestic Canadian Rocky Mountains.

I felt overwhelmingly happy. Visiting the Rockies had been a long-held dream for us, one we’d spent nearly a year planning in detail, all centred around this train journey. At the same time, there was a tinge of sadness, as by the end of the day, this magical journey would come to a close. But with numerous photos taken and countless moments etched into our minds, we knew we’d be carrying these memories with us forever.

One particularly memorable moment was passing through Craigellachie, the historic site where the last spike of the Canadian Pacific Railway was driven in, with a monumental point marking the completion of Canada’s first transcontinental railway. A monument now stands there to commemorate the event.

As we continued through Revelstoke, the landscape transformed dramatically. We were now in true mountainous country, pressing on toward Golden, and crossing the Stoney Creek Bridge in Glacier National Park. The views from the bridge were incredible, but then again, the views throughout the entire journey were consistently stunning.

This second day felt even more awe-inspiring. You begin to truly grasp the immensity of the mountains and the sheer scale of Canada itself. The Rocky Mountaineer hosts were exceptional, keeping us informed along the route with fascinating insights into the history and significance of each location. Their knowledge and warmth made the experience even more special- Huge credit to them.

We began to notice the changing colours of the river waters, a result of glacier melt feeding the rivers. The vibrant turquoise hues were unlike anything I’d ever seen. Passing through Golden, we followed the Kicking Horse River toward Field, entering one of the most mind-bending stretches of engineering: the Spiral Tunnels. Even now, I find it hard to fully comprehend how they work. You enter a tunnel with the view on one side of the train and emerge with the view now on the opposite side—after a 270-degree turn. Then you move into the next spiral tunnel. It’s a genius feat of engineering, designed to safely navigate the steep gradients of the mountains.

As we passed through Field, we soon crossed the Continental Divide—where the border between British Columbia and Alberta lies. Here, we also shifted from Pacific Time (GMT -8) to Mountain Time (GMT -7), gaining an hour. Not long after, we arrived at Lake Louise station, where a few passengers disembarked. At that moment, it hit us that our own journey was nearly over. But before reaching Banff, the hosts came around with the drinks trolley one last time, offering a final toast to this unforgettable experience. Almost 13 hours after leaving Kamloops, we pulled into Banff, where we’d stay for nearly a week.

It’s impossible to do justice to this journey in a short blog. It was truly an incredible experience—one of epic landscapes, towering mountains, deep valleys, cascading waterfalls, and endless forest—all accompanied by the unparalleled care of the Rocky Mountaineer team. These are memories we’ll treasure forever, and hopefully, one day, we’ll return to ride the Rocky Mountaineer once again.

Tips:
- As I already mentioned in a previous blog, we travelled Silver Leaf. It was fabulous. The hosts are trained to serve in both classes, the natural world views out of the oversized windows are amazing and the food, albeit served at your very comfortable seat was first class, which actually meant you didn’t miss a thing. I see negative comments on social media from time to time saying that Gold Leaf is the only way to travel. Take no notice of this, Silver Leaf was exceptional, and I would have no hesitation booking the same class again. For more info, please check out their website, where you can watch various videos to you help you to decide- rockymountaineer.com
July 19, 2025
The Rocky Mountaineer- Day One: Coastal to Canyons

Day one of our two-day journey to Banff took us eastbound from Vancouver to Kamloops, travelling from lush coastal rainforest into the arid interior plateau. After boarding the Rocky Mountaineer and settling in for what would be around 12 hours onboard, we were served a beautifully presented and delicious breakfast, accompanied by coffee or tea. Mealtimes offered a choice from a curated menu, with plenty of hot and cold drinks — including alcohol, if you fancied it. Every meal was generous and of exceptional quality.

As we made our way across the Coast Mountains, we followed the Fraser River — British Columbia’s longest, winding through the scenic Fraser Valley. Since this route uses the Canadian Pacific Railway, the Rocky Mountaineer occasionally has to yield to colossal freight trains by pulling into sidings. And when I say colossal, I mean it: some are over two miles long! For an Englishman, that’s almost inconceivable. At several points, we had to pause and let them pass, which caused a few delays — but honestly, aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, nobody seemed to mind. Watching the seemingly endless freight cars roll by was almost hypnotic. During these stops, we’d often play a quick game of cards or gaze out the opposite windows, soaking in the scenery.

As we approached the Fraser Canyon, we reached the dramatic narrowing known as Hell’s Gate. Here, the river funnels through a tight gorge with immense force. There’s a footbridge that spans the canyon and offers an impressive view, and an Airtram that allows visitors to glide across in a cable car, offering a bird’s-eye perspective of the thundering waters below.

We continued our journey, mesmerised by the ever-changing landscapes and on the lookout for wildlife. The crew encouraged us to shout out any sightings — for example, “Bald eagle on the left at 11 o’clock!” — so everyone could quickly turn and try to catch a glimpse. This sparked great camaraderie among the passengers, and we soon made friends in our carriage. Of course, there were some memorable characters onboard, which added to the fun. One highlight I’ll never forget was seeing thousands of salmon migrating upstream — an incredible sight to witness from a moving train.

Next came the Cisco Crossing, an iconic railway intersection at Siska, BC, where two major rail lines crisscross the Fraser River. We were travelling on the Canadian Pacific line, which was built first. As we crossed our bridge, we could see the Canadian National bridge just above us on the left- longer and loftier, which we passed under shortly afterwards.

Further along the Fraser at Lytton, we reached its confluence with the Thompson River. This was a particularly striking scene: the sediment-heavy, brown Fraser flowing side-by-side with the clear, green-blue waters of the Thompson, the contrast in colour marking the meeting of these two great rivers. From there, we followed the Thompson eastward toward Kamloops.

We passed through Rainbow Canyon, where vibrant bands of coloured rock lit up the cliffs, and then into Black Canyon, named for its darker, dramatic stone formations. At one point, we even spotted a hillside covered with painted college graduation years — in the middle of nowhere!

As evening fell, we skirted the shores of Kamloops Lake, eventually pulling into Kamloops station after almost 12 unforgettable hours. True to the Rocky Mountaineer’s finely tuned logistics, coaches were ready and waiting to whisk us off to our hotel. In just 5–10 minutes after disembarking we were in our room, ready for a quick shower and a night’s sleep before our early start for Day Two — the ascent into the heart of the Rocky Mountains, and onward to our final destination: Banff.

July 12, 2025
The Rocky Mountaineer – The Grand Départ

The day had finally arrived for us to experience the iconic Rocky Mountaineer train. Our entire Western Canada adventure had been planned around the specific dates the train runs from Vancouver in September.

Originally, we had booked the Journey Through the Clouds route, taking us from Vancouver to Jasper. However, due to the devastating wildfires that caused significant damage to Jasper and the surrounding area, our itinerary was changed to the First Passage to the West, which instead took us from Vancouver to Banff.

The day before departure, we checked in at the Rocky Mountaineer guest centre desk at the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel, where we collected our boarding passes and luggage tags — we were all set. It was an early start the next morning, as the bus picked us up just down the road from our hotel on West Hastings Street at around 7 a.m.

At the station, we found ourselves among a crowd of equally excited passengers. We grabbed a coffee and listened to the warm welcome address. Then, after the sound of the train whistle and the stirring notes of a bagpiper, it was time to board. As the train slowly pulled away from Vancouver station, the entire Rocky Mountaineer staff lined the platform to wave us off — it was a fabulous and moving sight. I have to admit, I felt quite emotional as we departed Vancouver. This journey on the Rocky Mountaineer was the pinnacle of our Canadian adventure, and the sense of excitement and anticipation was almost overwhelming.

We had booked seats in SilverLeaf Service, which turned out to be fantastic. Meals were served at our seats in the carriage, which was ideal, as the seats were spacious, with ample legroom, and could recline without impacting the person behind you. The food was excellent and generously portioned. The team of three onboard our carriage were exceptional — friendly, knowledgeable, and genuinely attentive. The panoramic views from the large domed windows, which extended into the roof of the carriage, were simply breathtaking.

Our journey on the first day took us to Kamloops for an overnight stay. We opted for a budget hotel, as the stop was short — we were there for little more than nine hours, just enough time for a shower and a sleep. The train runs only during daylight hours so that you don’t miss a moment of the incredible scenery.

I can’t recall exactly how many carriages our train had, we were close to the middle, but it was somewhere in the 20s. With the full crew, including hosts, managers, chefs, maintenance staff, and of course, the drivers, there must have been close to 90 staff onboard. The level of service provided by the Rocky Mountaineer team is truly world-class and easily the best I’ve ever experienced.

On arrival in Kamloops, coaches took us to our hotel, and as we were already checked in by Rocky Mountaineer, we were handed our room keys and straight off to our room, where our luggage was already waiting in the room. The next morning, we simply left our luggage in the room, and when we arrived in Banff, there they were again- neatly placed outside our door. It is a very slick operation, and I just cannot fault a single part of the experience. The entire Rocky Mountaineer team was wonderful, and the journey itself was everything we had hoped for, and more.

Tips
- The Rocky Mountaineer experience was exceptional; you won’t be disappointed- book it.
- For the short time you will spend at your stopover hotel, go budget. Ours was clean and warm and had all we needed.
- Check out the various videos on the Rocky Mountaineer website for more info and to get a feel of this wonderful experience.
July 4, 2025
Back to Vancouver to catch a train

Sadly, our time on Vancouver Island was limited, as we had a train to catch — the iconic Rocky Mountaineer, running from Vancouver to Banff. However, we made the most of our final day exploring Victoria.

After breakfast, we strolled over to Fisherman’s Wharf, just a few minutes from our hotel. You can easily spend an hour or so here admiring the boardwalks, browsing shops and eateries, and soaking in the atmosphere of the colourful floating homes.

From there, we headed into town to explore more of Victoria. The city offers a wide variety of shops and restaurants. You could easily spend a few hours at the Royal BC Museum, where you can learn about British Columbia’s natural history and Indigenous cultures. Right next door is Thunderbird Park, home to a striking display of totem poles. Or, if Parliament isn’t in session, consider taking a tour of the Parliament Buildings.

By lunchtime, we were ready for some nourishment, so we headed to the Jam Café on Herald Street — an excellent choice. Their breakfasts and brunches are exceptional. We’ve also been to the Jam Café in Vancouver (on Beatty Street), which was just as good. We waited in line for a few minutes, but it was absolutely worth it.

If you’re walking to the Victoria Jam Café from the harbour area, you’ll pass Chinatown, which is the oldest in Canada. It’s well worth a visit, with its unique architecture, vibrant shops, and fantastic restaurants.

After lunch, we wandered back down toward the harbour and spent some time simply enjoying the buzz and beauty of this picturesque spot. Then, we grabbed a coffee at Macchiato Caffè on Broad Street (they also have a location on Johnson Street), before heading to the bus stop for our return trip.

We had booked tickets with BC Ferries Connector for a 3:30 p.m. departure, and right on time, they picked us up. About an hour later, we arrived at the terminal for the 5 p.m. sailing from Swartz Bay to Tsawwassen. The evening was sunny and calm, making for a truly beautiful crossing. We reached Tsawwassen just as the sun was beginning to set.

By the time we were dropped off at our hotel — the Coast Coal Harbour — it was dark. The hotel had kindly stored our main luggage while we were away on the island. After dropping our bags off in the room, we headed out for dinner and decided to walk to Gastown, a lively area about a 15-minute walk away. It’s also home to the famous Gastown Steam Clock, which is definitely worth a visit.

Tips:
- Fishermans Wharf is fantastic and certainly worth exploring.
- The Jam Café is a must for breakfast or brunch, its excellent.
- Explore Victoria and maybe take in a tour of the Parliament Buildings if you can.
- Enjoy the wonderful BC ferries crossing.
- Gastown is worth a visit, and you get to see the steam clock.
June 29, 2025